OAKY CHAMPAGNE

Before 1950 almost all champagne in the wood was removed! At that time there were simply no alternatives, the modern steel tanks were only developed later. When the steel tanks came, almost all vintners switched to this method of removal because they were easier to clean and there were fewer hygiene problems in the cellar. In addition, it was significantly less work to fill a large tank than hundreds of small barrels and they were also more durable. However, some houses have always remained true to the wood, such as Krug or Bollinger.

The winegrowers who work with wood usually do not expand their entire production in wood, but only part of it. In this way, very specific basic wines or parcels can be developed in wood and / or some of the reserve wines can be developed in wood, the other part in steel or similar neutral containers (e.g. enamel tank). Later, the winemaker can use his assemblage to determine the percentage of reserve wines that have been aged in wood that are added.

In addition to the effect that the wine takes on the aroma of the wood, the wine also breathes through the wood (that's why it makes a serious difference whether you use wood chips, but these are prohibited in Champagne). Due to the contact with the air, the wine develops differently than in the steel tank. Wines developed in this way are usually more open, spicy, full-bodied and often also wild in their aromas. That comes from the aroma of the wood but also from the contact with the air.

The degree to which the aroma is influenced by the wood is determined by the size of the barrels (smaller barrels give off a more intense taste), by the toasting of the barrel (there are different roasts from medium to strong), by the type of wood (mostly French oak, American woods are often more intense), the thickness of the barrel wall (currently some winegrowers swear by Stockinger barrels from Austria, as these are particularly neutral and have thick, untoasted barrel staves) and whether the barrel is new or has been used more often.

Many biodynamic winemakers work with wood because it is the most natural substance. It is also said that native yeasts that are used in the first fermentation harmonize particularly well with wood.