Perlage

From a distance, the sounds echoing through the corridors of the venerable château can already be heard. The closer one approaches, the louder the cheerful, lively voices become. Inside the salon, a spirited, jovial gathering is in full swing—some leaning across the table, others gesticulating wildly. Everyone is animated and inspired; the conversations grow ever more lively.

Suddenly, a *pop* rings out—all heads turn as the group watches with delight as a cork shoots from a champagne bottle, soaring up to two meters into the air. *Ahhh*—that sound; how wonderful! For it symbolizes exuberance, the letting go of cares, the unbridled joy of life—the freedom to simply be silly! Glorious. The fascination with this phenomenon remains undiminished to this day; everyone recognizes that sound instantly.

This very scene was captured in a truly remarkable painting: *Déjeuner d'Huîtres* (The Oyster Lunch) by Jean-François de Troy, painted in 1735. It is believed to be the first known painting to depict the enjoyment of sparkling champagne! For centuries prior, the Champagne region had produced nothing but still wine.

Indeed, the bubbles in champagne were once considered a flaw! It was only later that people recognized their inspiring and sensory appeal—a realization that finally put an end to the century-long rivalry between Burgundy and Champagne over which region produced the superior wine. From then on, Burgundy could rightfully claim the title of the region producing the finest still wines, while in Champagne, the foundation was laid for the world's most exciting, prestigious, and celebrated sparkling wine.

But how do the bubbles actually get into the champagne? Carbon dioxide (CO2) is generated during the second fermentation, which takes place inside the bottle (known as *bottle fermentation*). This causes the champagne to sparkle—or, if uncorked carelessly, to foam over. More or less fine bubbles rise in elegant chains from the depths of the glass to the surface, where they burst with a delicate tingle in a cloud of aerosols. This process continues until all the CO2—previously held almost hermetically within the bottle—has escaped.

What follows are some more in-depth—and, we apologize in advance, somewhat "nerdier"—observations. :)

Scientific treatises have already been written regarding the number of bubbles in a bottle of Champagne. Gérard Liger-Belair, a professor at the University of Reims, has made a particular name for himself in this field. You can view some of his publications HERE; he has also published books on the subject.

At the moment of disgorgement, most Champagnes exhibit a pressure of 6 atmospheres. This corresponds to a dissolved quantity of 9 grams of carbon dioxide, which was generated during the fermentation of 24 grams of sugar. While these key metrics remain consistent across most Champagnes, the individual characteristics of the *perlage*—specifically the fineness and, consequently, the sheer number of bubbles—vary significantly from one Champagne to another.

This variation is subsequently described in terms of mouthfeel: silky, coarse, frothy, and so on. During our tastings, we have noticed that the subjective impression varies from person to person. While one person might describe a *perlage* as fine, it might strike another as coarse; in particular, the "frothiness"—that sensation of the Champagne truly effervescing once inside the mouth—is perceived and evaluated quite differently by different individuals.

Consequently, the nature of the *perlage* is a much-debated topic among Champagne enthusiasts, involving a multitude of internal and external factors. Once you have found a Champagne that strikes you as ideal in this regard, you might be tempted to commit yourself to it 100% from that moment on—only to discover, at a later date, that a different bottling presents an entirely different character once again. Ultimately, it remains a natural product—one that is not static once bottled, but rather undergoes continuous change.

Nevertheless, there are specific parameters that influence the *perlage*.

Its intensity, for instance, depends on the pressure within the bottle. High pressure manifests as larger, rapidly rising bubbles, while lower pressure results in smaller, slower-moving ones. Consequently, some Champagne producers have made it their mission to reduce the pressure inside the bottle. To achieve this, they primarily use less sugar during the secondary fermentation. Notable examples include Champagne Doyard and Cédric Bouchard.

However, time also plays a significant role.

In the winemaker’s cellar: Extended bottle aging serves to continuously refine the *perlage*. Champagnes that have undergone shorter aging periods typically exhibit a more intense, effervescent, and coarser bubble structure compared to those aged for many years.

Further maturation at home: Since a Champagne bottle is never completely airtight, a small amount of CO₂ inevitably escapes through the cork over time. As a result, fewer and fewer bubbles remain in the bottle to be enjoyed—so don't wait too long to drink it! :)

And even while you are enjoying it in your glass, the structure of the *perlage* undergoes yet another fundamental transformation.

And even while being enjoyed in the glass, the structure of the *perlage* undergoes yet another fundamental transformation: after a few minutes, the bubbles become smaller and no longer rise as vigorously as they did immediately after pouring.

Just like the pressure conditions inside the bottle, the ambient air pressure in the environment where a Champagne is consumed also influences its *perlage*. The lower this pressure, the larger the bubbles in which the carbon dioxide can escape. If one were to have the opportunity to enjoy a glass on the peaks of the Himalayas, it would not be a particularly subtle experience, as the bubbles would be up to four times larger than at sea level! It is, therefore, not merely one's imagination that a favorite vintage tastes different in an alpine hut than it does at home. Finding a suitable choice on an airplane also presents a challenge in this regard.

In this context, temperature must also be mentioned, as it influences the delicacy of the *perlage*. However, its impact is far less pronounced than is often assumed: bubble size increases as the temperature rises. Could this be one of the reasons why so many people prefer their Champagne truly cold?

Last but not least, the choice of glass also exerts a significant influence on the perceived delicacy of the bubbles. Slender, tall glasses produce larger bubbles and a more dynamic ascent, whereas wider-mouthed goblets have the opposite effect. Consequently—entirely according to personal taste—one can influence the intensity of the *perlage*, at least to a certain extent. Furthermore, for an ideal mouthfeel, hand-blown glasses or very fine machine-made glasses with wafer-thin rims are preferable, allowing the Champagne to flow onto the tongue like silk. With thicker glasses featuring a rolled rim, for instance, the wine practically stumbles into the mouth.